Monday, June 04, 2007

The Five Hour Hourglass Figure

As I noted, I'm in a bit of a knitting funk right now. I'm still knitting, but I'm not really concentrating on much of anything. So I've been just working a little here and there on projects. The Split V is ready for me to pick up the sleeves, yet it's just sitting here next to my knitting chair... still waiting.

Matt and I went to Joann's yesterday so he could get some supplies for a project for the race team. They had some great sales on some nice fabric and I got some nice chocolate brown linen blend to make a pair of drawstring cropped pants. I then started looking at some patterns online just for fun and inspiration. I now remember why I'm not sewing.

Pants aren't much of a problem, the fitting on those is straight forward, especially for drawstring pants (my back waist is very narrow). However, I was admiring some tops and some dresses and realized how much work is involved with making them and it annoys me. All sewing patterns are designed with a size B cup and they're based on how women were built 50+ years ago. We as a society are bigger... not just in weight, but in build. The problem is the "sliding scale" of pattern drafting. As the bust lines get larger, every thing else does proportionally.

So if you go by your full bust measurement and you're over a B cup, the shoulders and neckline are larger in the same proportions as you go up each size. So let's say that you wear a 34G bra size... that means that your full bust measurement is around a 42-43"... yet to buy a pattern for that measurement, the neck will fall off your shoulders (she says by experience). So then you have to figure out what is a good size for your shoulders fit, then adjust the bust line accordingly... and again, going from a B cup to a G cup is a significant amount of change... meaning that all the measurements will be skewed, requiring a lot of pattern drafting skills, as it will change the armsycle, the waist shaping, etc. It's probably easier to just start from scratch and draft your own pattern... something I don't want to bother with.

This is why I do not own a blouse. All my tops are knits (they stretch), plus ready to wear manufacturers have adjusted their clothes for today's average body type... maybe it's time for the sewing manufacturer's to do a complete overhaul as well...


At 12:11 PM , Nicole said...

I hope you can get out of your knitting funk soon. How did your class go on Saturday.

At 1:10 PM , fleecyknits said...

And it's just as bad if you happen to be at the other extreme. That's one reason I don't sew either. When you have a small bust, an "average" waist, and a big caboose, it's impossible to find a dress pattern that fits. It's almost as impossible to find one in a store. Good thing I almost never have to get dressed up. :-)


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